A new release from Frédéric Malle is guaranteed to create a stir, beauty writers and editors love his Editions de Parfums as much as discerning perfume lovers around the world.
Enter: Eau de Magnolia. Created by Carlos Benaïm – who has previously created a selection of floral home fragrances for EDPFM, all based on reproductions of headspaces taken by IFF researcher Dr. Braja Mookherjee – and Eau de Magnolia started its life from another such headspace analysis.
Magnolia itself hovers between various different olfactory territories, being a white floral that isn’t heavily indolic, a bright lemon-like zing, a rich creaminess and also a green, leafy facet.
Eau de Magnolia takes the citrus element of Magnolia and amplifies it with a burst of eau-de-cologne-style freshness in its opening: grapefruit and bergamot are tied with sweet lemon to the blossom, lending a delicate fizz. The translucent magnolia of the heart is given a creamy, skin-like facet from cedar, and the whole effect wears down to a luminous chyprée base; a cleaned up moss, parched, faintly nutty vetiver, and the odd metallic sweetness of patchouli round out the composition and add some longevity.
Malle will always deliver a beautiful and balanced fragrance – Eau de Magnolia doesn’t disappoint in this respect – whilst this may not be the most exciting or revolutionary of launches, it’s easy to wear and looks set to become a staple for summer, offering a less zesty alternative to his Cologne Bigarade.
Comparable fragrances to sniff out: Diorella by Christian Dior, Magnolia Romana by Eau d’Italie, Magnolia Grandiflora Sandrine by Grandiflora, Acqua Nobile Magnolia by Acqua di Parma, Decou-Vert by Laboratorio Olfattivo, Iperborea by Lorenzo Villoresi and Ô de Lancôme by Lancome.