Pretty Patchouli: Fashion Decree – Atkinsons 1799

Atkinsons was originally founded in 1799 by James Atkinson – a perfumer and soapmaker – and was revived last year by an Italian investor with the assistance of John Bailey, Mr Perfume himself, who assisted in the restoration of the archives for the brand.

fashiondecree

Fashion Decree is a modernised fragrance from the Atkinsons archives, and references the silks and the patchouli leaves that were packed in between them to prevent moths eating the precious fabrics. The silks and scarves became impregnated with the scent of patchouli, which in turn made patchouli oil a desirable component in perfumery: it symbolised luxury and wealth.

The fizzy, coca cola like opening sits atop a faintly bready, warm, sunny, peachy rose – itself having a quality of a still pool of reflective water, imitating the coolness and delicacy of silks. The translucent patchouli note (likely a fraction) has retained a slightly earthy edge, but otherwise feels clean and crisp. Whilst the familiar rose-patchouli theme of modern style chypres isn’t revolutionary, the execution is particularly adept in this instance amd helps modernise the potentially old school inspiration.

Comparative fragrances: Hippie Rose by Heeley, Coco Mademoiselle by Chanel, Lady Vengeance by Juliette Has a Gun, Iris Oriental by Parfumerie Generale, Miss Dior by Dior, La Vie est Belle by Lancome, Oriens by Van Cleef & Arpels.

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